Build Your Own:

Horror Throne

OK, kids, here's the way to build your own horror throne. First, here's what you'll need:

Tools:

Materials:

Note: The measurements given here were custom fit to my large (6'4", ~280lb) frame, your measurements should probably be adjusted to fit for comfort. No responsability is taken for unergonomic designs, haunter beware.

Make sure that all your tolerences are tight to make the throne as stable as possible. With the measurements given, 7 8' boards should be just enough, but you're probably better off over-buying. All attachments should be made with both wood glue and screws for a more rugged construction.

Construction:

  1. Attach 17" pieces to 42" and 33" pieces, squared on one end.
    step 1
  2. Attach a 27" piece between each pair of legs, wide side down.
    step 2
  3. Attach 2 24" pieces on edge between the front and back.
    step 3
  4. Attach a 24" piece on edge between the edge pieces in back. Attach two 19" pieces filling in the gaps in the bottom. Attach two 8" pieces on either side in front on edge. (NOTE: this design leaves an opening in the front of the chair to allow better sound from a speaker hidden in the seat. This is not strictly necessary; if not desired, replace the two 8" pieces with one 24" piece running across the front.)
    step 4
  5. Attach the 12" pieces to the insides of the uprights above the seat.
    step 5
  6. Attach the 25-1/2" pieces on top of the 12" from the previous step.
    step 6
  7. Attach the 28-1/2" pieces in front of the back uprights.
    step 7
  8. Attach a 27" piece across the back.
    step 8
  9. Attach 2 8" pieces above the 27" from the previous step.
    step 9
  10. Attach another 27" piece across the back.
    step 10
  11. Attach 2 8" pieces above the 27" from the previous step.
    step 11
  12. Cut the top of the 2'x4' sheet of plywood to the desired shape (in my case a simple triangle.) Cut notches in the corners of the 1/4" 2'x2' sheet of plywood so that it fits between the legs (should be 1"x1-1/2" from each corner). The long ends should be on parallel sides. Fasten the two pieces in place. If the back is not sturdy (near the bottom particularly) use some leftover pieces of wood to anchor it.
    step 12
  13. Cut the 3/8" 2'x2' in the same way as the 1/4". Also trim off 1/2" from the back edge -- should be 1"x1" from each back corner, 1"x1-1/2" from each front corner. Be a little generous with the cuts, the seat should be removable without scraping the paint. Do not fasten this part down to the 2"x3"s. The use of more scrap inside the seat corners to help support the seat is recommended.
    step 13
  14. Fill the screw holes, knotholes, cracks, spaces between wood, etc. with spackle and sand thoroughly. When satisfied, put 2-4 coats of a high-gloss black paint. Spray paint doesn't cut it, I emptied two cans on mine without getting anywhere.
    step 14
  15. As a final touch, put the adhesive felt pads on the feet of the chair to avoid scratching floors when you move it.

That's it! It took me 3 evenings total to do this project, and I'm no master carpenter. One of the evenings was the failed spray-paint attempt. Variations on this could include a more elaborate paint job, appropriate decorations (think skulls) attached before painting, more complex designs in the back, etc. This chair is a good starting point. Good luck, and happy haunting!